Viking Age Brooches Offer Rare Insight into Ancient Clothing
Archaeologists in Denmark have uncovered two oval brooches from a Viking Age grave that still contain traces of fabric, providing a rare glimpse into how people dressed more than 1,300 years ago. The discovery, made at the Skonager archaeological site in West Jutland, has been described as significant because textiles from this period rarely survive.
What was found at the Skonager site?
The Skonager site first revealed its importance in 2024, when archaeologists discovered a cluster of Viking graves containing iron knives, glass beads, and other grave goods. Among these findings, two oval brooches emerged from one grave, and upon closer examination, experts found traces of fabric still attached to both sides of the jewelry.
According to Archaeology West Jutland, the corrosion of the jewelry released metal salts that helped preserve the fabric while it lay in the grave. Viking graves in West Jutland are uncommon, and the preservation of teeth and textiles alongside the remains makes this discovery particularly valuable.
Why does the fabric matter?
The brooches contain traces of fabric on both the outside and inside, which may give experts insight into the woman's outer garment as well as what she wore close to her body. The National Museum of Denmark notes that clothing from the Viking Age is rarely found, so much of the current knowledge about Viking dress comes from written sources or depictions on tapestries.
According to the museum, Vikings dressed according to sex, age, and economic status. Men typically wore trousers and tunics, while women wore strap dresses over undergarments. Ordinary clothing was made from local materials such as wool and flax, woven by women.
What does this tell us about Viking society?
Grave findings have shown that wealthier Vikings sometimes imported their clothes, using silk and gold beads to adorn themselves. Oval brooches like those found at Skonager were commonly used by women to secure an outer dress over undergarments.
The brooches may be older than the cloth they fastened. One brooch showed signs of repair, suggesting it may have been an heirloom passed down through generations. Radiocarbon dating is planned to better determine the age of the discovery. Oval brooches are characteristic of the Viking Age, conventionally dated in this region to between 800 and 1050 C.E.
What happens next?
Researchers are now studying both the fabric and the brooches. The University of Southern Denmark will analyze the teeth, while other groups will examine the soil to help analyze the textiles. The museum's Textile Colors of the Viking Age project will search for pigments, potentially revealing the original colors of the fabric. If pigments have survived alongside the threads, the woman known as the girl with the oval brooches may be seen in color for the first time in 1,300 years.