France Defends Anti-Fast-Fashion Law Against China’s Discrimination Claims
France has dismissed China’s accusations that its new anti-fast-fashion law is discriminatory, insisting the measure is designed to protect the environment and consumers. The French government remains confident the law complies with European Union regulations, while Beijing has yet to specify what retaliatory steps it might take.
What did China say about the French law?
On Thursday, Chinese commerce ministry spokeswoman Huang Ling called for the suspension of the French law, which was adopted by parliament in June and signed into law in July. Huang accused France of using environmental and sustainability arguments to create a two-tier system that she said could breach World Trade Organization anti-discrimination rules.
“If France persists, China will take the necessary measures to protect the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese companies,” Huang said, adding that “France will bear all the consequences that ensue.”
How has France responded?
A source from France’s Foreign Trade and Attractiveness office told Euronews that the law is “not discriminatory” but was introduced to “protect the environment and consumers.” The official added that it is in everyone’s interest, including China’s, to maintain a calm and civil trade relationship with France and the European Union.
Regarding China’s threat of retaliation, the source stated: “Our Parliament is sovereign and has had its say. It has passed this law and we will fully respect its decision. This kind of threat, this challenge to a state’s sovereign position, is coercion, economic retaliation. But for now, it remains a threat.”
Is the law compatible with EU regulations?
The European Commission had earlier expressed reservations about whether the draft law aligns with broader EU law, particularly its provisions clamping down on advertising from fast-fashion companies. However, the French official said the law is robust.
“We have taken the time to respond to the European Commission’s concerns, to questions about compatibility with various directives. Questions remain, but we are confident. From our point of view, there are no outstanding issues,” the official said.
What could China do next?
China has not yet indicated what retaliatory measures it might take. Beijing has previously targeted French interests, imposing provisional anti-dumping measures on European brandy in October 2024, days after the EU voted to proceed with tariffs on Chinese electric vehicles. French cognac producers were among those affected by that customs dispute.
What does the anti-fast-fashion law entail?
The law defines ultra-fast fashion based on two criteria: the number of new products a company launches and whether customers are encouraged to repair items rather than replace them. The scheme aims to reduce the fashion sector’s environmental footprint while shielding France’s ready-to-wear industry from a flood of low-cost imports.
The charge per item will vary on a predefined scale, depending on how each product scores against these criteria. The levy is paid by producers, not directly by consumers, although companies may pass on some or all of the cost through higher prices.
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